Assembly Instructions and Assembly Video

Trike Bike assembly video - 44 minutes duration. How to assemble your Trike Bike

Written instructions are below or download as PDF from HERE

We want you to be absolutely happy with your Trike Bike and part of our goal is to make sure our assembly instructions are complete and easy to follow.

Firstly let me say..... We only want you to purchase a Trike that you know is suitable for you or your family to put together.... we don't want frustrated customers.

If you have no mechanical ability, suitable tools or cant follow instructions then stop right now and get the Trike either assembled by ourselves our your closest professional Bike store. Professional assembly normally costs between $100-$150 and may be money well spent.

However, even after giving this warning about 97% of our customer assemble their Trike without any problems provided you follow the simple instructions which follow....

Congratulations on your purchase of a Trike-Bike, please take the time to read through this manual to assist with the assembly process. You will need the following tools.

Adjustable wrench, also known as Crescent wrench
Selection of metric spanners

Screw driver, normal and Phillips head

Metric allen keys
Nice cup of Tea or Coffee to go along with these instructions

Click on any small photograph to open a larger clearer copy for viewing.

Your Trike-Bike has been supplied in two boxes, the larger box weighing 26 kg includes all of the major parts for the Trike-Bike and the second smaller box contains the large basket to go on the rear of the Trike-Bike as well as the small basket to go on the front of the Trike-Bike. Using a sharp knife, cut open the Trike-Bike box and make sure that you cut it so you can use the cardboard box to protect the Trike-Bike from being scratched during assembly. Lay the cardboard on the ground as your work area and conveniently place and familiarize yourself with the other parts.
In the small box shown in the bottom left-hand corner of the photograph above is all of the hardware required to assemble the Bike including LED light, chain, seatpost, reflectors, front brake, brake cables, pedals and other associated hardware, nuts and bolts etc. for the assembly.
The Trike-Bike meets Australian design rules and has the required reflectors for fitting.

The yellow reflectors go on each wheel and attach to the spokes, the white reflector goes on the front basket and the two red reflectors go on the rear mud guards, facing backwards.

Based on recent feedback a lot of customers are misidentifying the correct hardware to use and then ring up saying that parts are missing from their packages when they have incorrectly used the hardware In the wrong section of the assembly. The following photographs are fairly self-explanatory but if you click on the image it will open a larger image allowing you to clearly identify the parts and where they are used.

Hardware checklist - remember click on the photo for a detailed image

4 bolts with 2 washers each and nyloc
nuts approximately 50 mm long are used
to hold the rear basket to the frame
4 large diameter bolts, 6 washers and
6 large nyloc nuts are used to
connect the back wheel section to
the Bike frame
3 small bolts, these are used to
secure the chain guard to the frame
3 aluminium 'tubes' closed at one end,
these are to cover the brake and
gearchange cables when completed
to stop the cables from fraying
1 seat post clamp - NOTE: there are 2 types used by the manufacturer and the photograph may differ from shown above. Some are a complete ring clamp type
4 bolts with 2 washers each and a nyloc
nut for securing the rear wheel guards
to the frame
8 bolts to hold the rear mud
guards to the mud guard fram
e
2 small bolts with saddle clamp and backing
plate to secure the front mudguard
support bracket to the front mudguard
Three strip brackets for the front basket,
4 bolts and 4 washers
(NOW ONLY 1 OF THE BENT BRACKET SUPPLIED)
Wheel reflectors, 3 of the reflector and 3
of the plastic fittings to secure to the
wheel spokes
2 plastic end caps which go on the front
wheel axles when the Trike Bike is completed
2 rear reflectors with a 5mm nut on each
1 front reflector with a small screw

To start assembling your Trike-Bike is necessary to complete a lot of smaller subassemblies first and then everything falls together very rapidly. We have found with experience that the following assembly sequence is by far the easiest. Again make sure you have the proper tools available, the necessary time without distractions and enjoy assembling your Trike-Bike.
Firstly, find and locate the two rear mud guards which are protected by cardboard on each end and plastic over the rest of the mud guard. We would recommend leaving the plastic on the mud guard for as long as possible to avoid it getting scratched. Fit the two red reflectors as shown in the photograph to each of the rear mud guards. Tighten the nut behind with an 8mm spanner and remember that you are not putting together a semitrailer and it is not necessary to over tighten anything on the Trike-Bike. Note: The two holes at the ends of each mudguard sometimes need to be drilled out a little because they clog with paint, if you have difficulty in getting the bolts through then run a drill through the holes to clean them out.
Fit the rear mud guards to their support brackets as shown in the photograph. At this stage do not tighten the bolts which secure the rear mud guards to the frames.

Take note: the position of the frames as shown in the photograph with the cut section of the frame toward the inside of the photograph.

Also note: that a lot of the bolts are left loose until final assembly so everything can be adjusted and aligned correctly.

Locate the two chrome support frames which go on the front mud guard and also on the front basket.

The support frame which has a circular end as shown on the left hand side of this photograph is used for the front mud guard. The support frame with the square end attaches to the bottom of the front basket.

Locate the necessary hardware to fit the front support bracket to the bottom rear of the front mud guard as shown in the photograph. Make sure everything is aligned correctly and centrally before tightening the nuts and bolts.
This is a rear view of the front mud guard showing that nyloc nuts are used to secure this bracket in place.

NOTE: on recent batches we have been supplied with a plate which has two threaded holes instead of individual nuts to make assembly easier.

Now attach the support bracket with the square ends to the bottom of the front basket.
Make sure that the support bracket is aligned in the center of the basket before tightening the nuts and bolts.
Locate and partially unwrap the main rear axle assembly. Remove the bubble wrap from the end of the axles as shown in the photograph.
Please locate both of the rear wheels. They are similar in every respect except one wheel has a special cut out as shown in this photograph on the inside of one of the hubs. This cut out meets with a special hub which is only on one side of the main axle assembly. This alignment determines which wheel is the left wheel and which wheel is the right wheel.
Notice the special cut out in the hub on this photograph. This is the correct side for fitting the special hub as shown above and as you sit on the Bike is on your right hand side. The assembly order is, slide the wheel onto the shaft, align with the hub and push on. Then fit the two silver washers, fit the normal nut and finally fit the dome nut. Always do the right hand side first. The dome nut is there as a safety precaution to stop people catching their clothes on the end of the axle and must be fitted.
Do exactly the same for the left-hand wheel except the assembly order is washer first, then wheel, then washer, then nut and finally the dome nut. Tighten firmly but not too tight, if it over tighten this side you will hear a scraping sound inside the wheel assembly and it will be difficult to turn the pedals when the chain Is finally connected.
Photographs showing the rear axle connected to frame align by eye to be at 90 degrees to the frame.  The rear axle assembly is held to the mainframe by six bolts. These bolts have a domed head with a square section immediately under the head which holds them in position whilst they are being tightened. As mentioned, there are six bolts in total and you will notice already that two bolts near the brake assembly are already in position. The correct assembly sequence is bolt through the rear axle assembly and then through the frame, place a washer and then tighten up the nyloc nut firmly.
We now move to the front of the Trike-Bike and it is very easy to fit the front wheel into the forks. Remove the nut and two washers from each side of the front wheel axle. With the wheel in place on the front forks slide the front mud guard into place and then fit the front brake caliper. The correct sequence for fitting the front brakes is the front brake assembly first followed by the small tab which holds the front mud guard, this then goes through the front fork frame, on the rear goes the washer and then finally the dome nut.
Down at the front axle we firstly fit the special washer with a tab on the end with the tab inserted into the frame. This is done to prevent the front wheel falling out if ever the nuts come loose. Then fit the support bracket for the front basket, the support bracket for the front mud guard, the normal washer and then finally the nut. When everything is in position and aligned correctly tightened the nuts firmly. Finally, fit the supplied plastic end caps to the exposed axle to prevent your clothes from being caught on the end of the front axles.
The front basket attaches to the top of the steering yoke as shown in the photographs
The front handlebar assembly is now fitted into the front fork assembly, everything is aligned so it is right angles to the front wheel and then the handlebar unit is secured by tightening the hidden bolt with the allen key as shown in this photograph.

Make sure the handlebar post is inserted at least 75 mm into the front fork assembly. Make sure this bolt is tight, at the same time it will be necessary to adjust the angle of the front handlebars again by using an Allen key on the front side of the handlebar clamp.

Unwrap the pedals and fit one to the left hand side of the Trike-Bike. Note that the left pedal will only fit on the left side and the right pedal will only fit on the right side. The direction of thread on these pedals is different and it can sometimes be hard to get the thread started correctly. Please take your time when doing this because of cross threading the pedal [which is extremely unlikely] will mean that the pedal wobbles every rotation. Leave fitting the right pedal until later.
Locate the Trike-Bike seat and also the seat support pole and fit as shown in the photograph, tighten the 13mm nuts on both sides so the seat so it’s then clamped onto the seat support pole.
Fit the seat adjuster clamp as shown in the photograph below, slide the seat with the seat support pole down into this tube and then clamp into position. The height of the seat can be adjusted to suit the individual rider when it comes time to test ride the Trike-Bike.

Locate the correct cables for the Trike-Bike.

The gear cable should already be in position and only needs to be run along the length of the Trike-Bike to the main gear cluster at the rear. If the cable is not in position then remove the black plastic outer cable and slide the inner wire cable through the small hole on the back/side of the gear change unit and reconnect the outer cable.

Don't try and pull the gear change assembly apart!

There are two other cables supplied with the Trike-Bike, the short one is for the front wheel brake which attaches to the right side handlebar. The rear brake is a longer cable and this attaches to the left side handlebar.

Connecting the front brake cable is very easy. Make sure the cable is properly seated on the right handlebar and run it down to the front brake as shown in the photograph.

The front brake assembly is spring-loaded and it will be necessary to squeeze both sides together and then adjust the cable to suit.

The front brake rubbers which rub against the wheel rim to provide you with stopping power need to be adjusted into the correct position as shown in this photograph.

The correct spanner to use is 10 mm.

The gear change cable goes from the right-hand handlebar over the top of the basket support and then fits into the cable guides as shown in the photograph. There are several of these which support the cable down underneath the frame and past the pedals to the rear of the frame.
The gear change cable goes towards the rear of the Bike as shown in this photograph and then loops over down into the gear change cluster.
This photograph shows more clearly how the cable is located into the gear change cluster.  It is then secured by passing through the cable clamp.

I would recommend leaving this clamp loose until we have finished adjusting the gears correctly.

The chain is threaded through the rear gear cluster, through the chain tensioner (derailleur) and then back up to the front sprocket.

Each end of the chain is held together by a metal pin which is pushed through the chain link to secure the chain correctly.

There are specialty tools for doing this but it can also be carefully done with a large pair of pliers if you have nothing else available.

Note: Do not damage the pin or chain or it will need to be replaced.  

Once the chain in place it is then necessary to raise the rear of the Trike-Bike so the pedals can be turned and any adjustments made to the gear change by adjusting the length of the cable.

When you have crimped the chain be sure the movement is not restricted, see our video.

Adjusting the gear cluster movie

Fit the rear brake cable as shown in the photograph, again it is necessary to partially squeeze the brake arm and then tightened the brake cable.

The cable fits into the silver nipple attached to the top of the disk brake caliper assembly and then goes under the bolt and washer.

Fit the chain guard (3 bolts) and then fit the right hand side pedal into position. 

Note: the front bracket which holds the chain guard in position can quite easily be rotated so that the holes line up correctly

Fit the rear mud guards as shown in the photographs above. It is important that these are fitted level so that the Trike-Bike looks good from the side. If the main support bracket is tilted at an angle it ruins the ascetics and good looks of the Trike-Bike.

It may be that when these brackets are adjusted and tightened firmly that they actually rub on the front or back of the rear wheels.

This is quite normal and is easily fixed by gently bending the metal arms by pushing or pulling as required. It should not take a great deal of strength and please do not get aggressive and hit the brackets with a hammer.

You need the rear mud guard supports to be positioned centrally with the front and the rear of the tire position. Once you are happy with the location you can then go ahead and tighten the two bolts at either end of the mudguards support again taking care to make sure that it stays aligned with not only the front and rear of the tire but also the top of the tire.

The final task is fitting the large carry basket to the rear of the Trike-Bike.

Position the large white basket centrally on the rear frame. There are four bolts which hold the basket in position and these pass through the long metal strips as shown in the photograph, through the basket and into the frame of the Trike-Bike. These bolts are firmly tightened in position.

You are then ready to go over the Trike-Bike one last time and tighten anything which has not already been tightened or adjusted. Once happy you are ready for a test ride.

Pick a clear location away from obstructions and pedal off to a moderate pace, firstly testing the rear brake and then the front brake. Both brakes should work very effectively even though they are new and not bedded in correctly.  Once we are confident that you can stop it is then time to go through the gears and make sure that the Bike is shifting gear correctly, once this has been tested make any adjustments required to the brakes and the gear change and then head off into the wilds enjoying your new Trike-Bike. It is completely normal to make the same adjustments to the Bike after approximately 10 hours of use as everything settles in and the cables stretch etc, any questions please don't hesitate to contact us directly.

Enjoy your Trike-Bike !


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Trike Bike Australia - Unit 2, No. 481 Scottsdale Drive Varsity Lakes Queensland. Australia 4227      Ph 07 5522 0583        International +61 7 5522 0583